Fine jewellery is one of humanity’s oldest forms of luxury. From the diamond mines of Botswana to the ruby deposits of Myanmar, the world’s rarest gemstones have been coveted by royalty and collectors for millennia. Here is everything you need to know before making a significant jewellery investment.
The Four Cs of Diamonds
Every diamond is evaluated on four criteria: cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. Of these, cut has the greatest impact on a diamond’s brilliance and visual appeal. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) grading system is the global standard for diamond certification.
A D-colour, flawless, excellent-cut diamond of one carat can command €15,000–€25,000 at retail. Coloured diamonds — particularly pink, blue and red — are among the rarest and most valuable gemstones in existence. The Pink Star diamond sold for $71.2 million at auction in 2017.
The World’s Finest Jewellery Houses
Cartier remains the most recognised jewellery brand in the world. The Love bracelet, the Trinity ring and the Panthère collection are icons of 20th-century design. Cartier’s high jewellery pieces — presented at the annual Cartier High Jewellery exhibition — represent the pinnacle of the craft.
Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its Alhambra collection and its mastery of the invisible setting technique — a proprietary method of setting gemstones without visible prongs that creates a seamless surface of pure colour.
Graff specialises in exceptional stones. The London-based house has handled some of the world’s most significant diamonds, including the Lesedi La Rona — the second largest gem-quality rough diamond ever discovered.
Coloured Gemstones as Investment
While diamonds dominate popular culture, coloured gemstones have delivered extraordinary returns for knowledgeable collectors. Burmese rubies of exceptional quality now command higher per-carat prices than diamonds of equivalent weight. Kashmir sapphires — from a small deposit in northern India that was largely exhausted in the 19th century — are among the rarest gemstones in existence.
What to Look For
Always buy certified stones from reputable dealers. For coloured gemstones, seek certificates from Gübelin or SSEF in addition to GIA. Provenance matters — a Burmese ruby with documented origin commands a significant premium over an unverified stone of similar quality.
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